We may be just a week into 2014, but it is never too early to start thinking about the spring Everest climbing season. As many of you already know, year-in and year-out, one of the best sources of information on all things having to do with Everest is Alan Arnette. Each year, Alan provides excellent insights into what it takes to climb the mountain, while providing regular updates on conditions on both the North and South sides, while closely tracking the locations of the numerous teams attempting to scale its impressive slopes. Over the past few years, Alan has kicked off his annual coverage by first giving us a run down of just how much it costs to undertake an Everest expedition, and each year it is an interesting read. Yesterday, he posted the 2014 version of that report, and for those unfamiliar with the expenses of a major climb in the Himalaya, it can sometimes cause sticker shock.
As usual, the costs for climbing Everest have increased on both the North and South side of the mountain this year. But what's different for 2014 is that while the guide services at the high end of the spectrum have mostly held steady, it is the low-end companies that seem to have hiked their rates for 2014. He is also quick to point out that this type of expedition is not one in which you want to go cut-rate, but with prices ranging from $30,000 - $100,000 it can be confusing to decide to who to go with.
Alan breaks down the costs into different categories, giving readers estimates on climbing solo vs. as part of an organized team. He also discusses the differences in teams as well, which include Sherpa supported climbs, Sherpa guided expeditions and Western guided options. Each of those provides a different level of service, with some willing to spend less to do more on their own, while others pay considerably more for a safer, more full-service attempt on the summit.
With guided climbs costing in the neighborhood of $40,000 to $65,000, it is sometimes tough to see where the cost differences come from. Alan points out that sometimes it is just in the form of profit to help pay the overhead required to operate on the mountain, but it also often comes at the expense of services such as Sherpa support on the upper slopes or no bottled oxygen included in the price.
One of the more interesting elements of Alan's report is his comparison chart of the companies that operate on Everest. It gives the name of the organization, average team size, types of guides, previous summit success and of course the costs. The prices range from as low as $28,450 for an expedition on the North Side with Summit Climb, to $89,000 with AlpenGlow on the South Side that includes Western guides.
If you've ever considered climbing Everest yourself, then Alan's Cost to Climb guide is a must read. It'll give you all the information you need for selecting the right guide service for your own climb, while weighing in all the factors to think about, including safety considering, which route to take, which company to go with and much more.
It also serves to get the adrenaline flowing for a new Everest climbing season. For fans of the mountain, April can't come fast enough!
Tuesday, 7 January 2014
Winter Climbs 2014: Settling Into Base Camp And Close Call On Nanga Parbat
The focus of the winter climbing season in the Himalaya remains squarely on Nanga Parbat this year, with several teams attempting to complete the first winter ascent of that mountain. While conditions were less than favorable around the start of the New Year, things have improved somewhat now and acclimatization rotations have begun. The mountaineers have a considerable amount of work ahead of them in the weeks ahead, although one team narrowly averted disaster already and have had their decision to leave the mountain reaffirmed.
Last week I reported that German climber Ralf Dujmovits had decided to abandon his attempt at a solo summit on Nanga. While surveying the route, he noticed that there were two ice towers hanging over his intended path and he realized he would spend more than a day and a half climbing in their shadow. The two towers looked very precarious, as if they could collapse at any time, so Ralf decided he risk just wasn't worth the effort and decided to pack up his things and go home. Just a day after making that decision, Dujmovits and Polish climber Darek Zaluski narroly avoided an avalanche on the Diamir Face. Ralf wrote to Stefan Nestler about the incident saying that the duo were "very lucky" to have escaped unharmed. The two men descended to BC safely and are now presumably on their way back home.
Over on the Rupal Face, the team of Simone Moro, Emilio Previtali and David Gottler have been in BC for a bit over a week now. Simone and David have both spent a night at Camp 1 as they begin their acclimatization process, while also shuttling gear up the slope. In a recent update to their blog, they reported on the journey to BC, where they indicated that security on the road leading to the mountain is quite high. Following a high profile attack by terrorists in the Nanga Parbat Base Camp this past summer – during which 3 Pakistani soldiers and 10 foreign climbers were killed – officials in Pakistan are keen to make sure everyone is safe moving forward. To that end, the climbers received a military escort to the mountain, and a guard station with ten soldiers now sits along the road that leads to the peak. That level of security will hopefully allow the teams to climb without fear of another attack and simply concentrate on the mountain itself.
There have been few updates from the Polish "Justice For All" team in the past week. In the last report, they were preparing to fix ropes up to 6000 meters (19,685 ft), with several team members already acclimatizing above 5000 meters (16,404 ft). Whether or not those rope fixing efforts have been successful has yet to be determined, but it seems likely that they would have completed the task by now, provided the weather has been cooperative.
Finally, Italian climber Daniele Nardi is preparing to arrive on Nanga Parbat soon. He'll attempt a solo summit along the Diamir Face starting in late January. After properly acclimatizing, he intends to climb in alpine style, while avoiding any sense of competition with any of the other teams.
It interesting to see so much attention focused on a single mountain this winter. With all of the other 8000 meter peaks now climbed in winter – save K2 – it seems Nanga is the prize that most are interested in. Considering the number of fatalities during the winter season in recent years, it would appear that unless there is a potential first ascent to be had, most climbers have decided the risks just aren't worth the rewards. If Nanga Parbat is finally climbed in the winter, the same level of attention could then be focused on K2, a mountain that is far more treacherous to climb at any time of the year.
Stay tuned for more updates as warranted.
Last week I reported that German climber Ralf Dujmovits had decided to abandon his attempt at a solo summit on Nanga. While surveying the route, he noticed that there were two ice towers hanging over his intended path and he realized he would spend more than a day and a half climbing in their shadow. The two towers looked very precarious, as if they could collapse at any time, so Ralf decided he risk just wasn't worth the effort and decided to pack up his things and go home. Just a day after making that decision, Dujmovits and Polish climber Darek Zaluski narroly avoided an avalanche on the Diamir Face. Ralf wrote to Stefan Nestler about the incident saying that the duo were "very lucky" to have escaped unharmed. The two men descended to BC safely and are now presumably on their way back home.
Over on the Rupal Face, the team of Simone Moro, Emilio Previtali and David Gottler have been in BC for a bit over a week now. Simone and David have both spent a night at Camp 1 as they begin their acclimatization process, while also shuttling gear up the slope. In a recent update to their blog, they reported on the journey to BC, where they indicated that security on the road leading to the mountain is quite high. Following a high profile attack by terrorists in the Nanga Parbat Base Camp this past summer – during which 3 Pakistani soldiers and 10 foreign climbers were killed – officials in Pakistan are keen to make sure everyone is safe moving forward. To that end, the climbers received a military escort to the mountain, and a guard station with ten soldiers now sits along the road that leads to the peak. That level of security will hopefully allow the teams to climb without fear of another attack and simply concentrate on the mountain itself.
There have been few updates from the Polish "Justice For All" team in the past week. In the last report, they were preparing to fix ropes up to 6000 meters (19,685 ft), with several team members already acclimatizing above 5000 meters (16,404 ft). Whether or not those rope fixing efforts have been successful has yet to be determined, but it seems likely that they would have completed the task by now, provided the weather has been cooperative.
Finally, Italian climber Daniele Nardi is preparing to arrive on Nanga Parbat soon. He'll attempt a solo summit along the Diamir Face starting in late January. After properly acclimatizing, he intends to climb in alpine style, while avoiding any sense of competition with any of the other teams.
It interesting to see so much attention focused on a single mountain this winter. With all of the other 8000 meter peaks now climbed in winter – save K2 – it seems Nanga is the prize that most are interested in. Considering the number of fatalities during the winter season in recent years, it would appear that unless there is a potential first ascent to be had, most climbers have decided the risks just aren't worth the rewards. If Nanga Parbat is finally climbed in the winter, the same level of attention could then be focused on K2, a mountain that is far more treacherous to climb at any time of the year.
Stay tuned for more updates as warranted.
Gear Closet: Icebug Anima2 BUGrip Winter Running Shoes
Considering the nasty weather that is sweeping across much of the U.S. and parts of Europe this week, it seems appropriate that I share my thoughts on the Anima2 BUGrip winter running shoes from Icebug. If you're a runner who refuses to move inside for the winter, but routinely has to deal with snow, ice and cold temperatures, then these are definitely the shoes for you.
Icebug is a Swedish company that designs excellent athletic shoes for dedicated outdoor enthusiasts. The company is relatively new to North America, but they are making a big move into the market now. You may not have heard much about the company in the past, but I'm willing to bet you'll be hearing a lot more about them in the future.
At first glance, the Anima2 running shoes look a lot like many other running shoes you'd find on the market. They are a bit on the flashy side, but regular runners are use to unique color combinations on shoes that really make them stick out in a crowd. These shoes have an aggressive sole that makes them well suited for trail running in all kinds of conditions, and the waterproof uppers keep your feet warm and dry, whether you're running on snow, slush, ice, mud or even dry trails. In short, they're an excellent trail shoe that is comparable to just about anything else you'll find on the market.
But what really sets the Anima2 shoes apart from the competition is the patented BUGrip system, which integrates a series of steel studs into the rubber sole to provide unprecedented grip in slick conditions. In the case of these shoes, there are 19 such studs, each working independently of one another to provide traction as needed. It is an impressive and sophisticated approach for giving runners the absolute best grip possible in some of the worst conditions imaginable.
Over the holiday break, I had the opportunity to put these shoes to their paces in a variety of unique conditions, including snow, ice and slush. Icebug's BUGrip system performed extremely well in each of those circumstances, providing a sure grip no matter where I went. When paired with the waterproof uppers, my feet stayed warm and dry, even in ankle deep snow, and I ran more surefooted than I had previously thought possible. For runners who often take on poor winter conditions, this is certainly a shoe you'll want to have in your closet.
On top of the excellent performance the Anima2 shoes bring to the table, they also happen to be quite comfortable. The shoes have thick padding that cradles the food nicely, providing yet more support for runners on the road. It's a rare combination of shoes that provide this kind of performance and are also comfortable on the foot.
As much as I really like these shoes, I have to say that I mostly preferred them in the bad conditions. When I ran on a dry trail with these shoes, there was something about the way the spikes felt that just didn't quite jive for me. On a regular trail, I'd still prefer a pair of regular trail shoes. But in the slop of the mud, ice and snow, there is no question I'd much rather have the Anima2's on my feet.
Also, I'd recommend getting a pair of gaiters to wear over these shoes, as they don't keep the snow and slush out of the top all that well. Aside from that, they are just about perfect for foul weather running.
MSRP: $155
Icebug is a Swedish company that designs excellent athletic shoes for dedicated outdoor enthusiasts. The company is relatively new to North America, but they are making a big move into the market now. You may not have heard much about the company in the past, but I'm willing to bet you'll be hearing a lot more about them in the future.
At first glance, the Anima2 running shoes look a lot like many other running shoes you'd find on the market. They are a bit on the flashy side, but regular runners are use to unique color combinations on shoes that really make them stick out in a crowd. These shoes have an aggressive sole that makes them well suited for trail running in all kinds of conditions, and the waterproof uppers keep your feet warm and dry, whether you're running on snow, slush, ice, mud or even dry trails. In short, they're an excellent trail shoe that is comparable to just about anything else you'll find on the market.
But what really sets the Anima2 shoes apart from the competition is the patented BUGrip system, which integrates a series of steel studs into the rubber sole to provide unprecedented grip in slick conditions. In the case of these shoes, there are 19 such studs, each working independently of one another to provide traction as needed. It is an impressive and sophisticated approach for giving runners the absolute best grip possible in some of the worst conditions imaginable.
Over the holiday break, I had the opportunity to put these shoes to their paces in a variety of unique conditions, including snow, ice and slush. Icebug's BUGrip system performed extremely well in each of those circumstances, providing a sure grip no matter where I went. When paired with the waterproof uppers, my feet stayed warm and dry, even in ankle deep snow, and I ran more surefooted than I had previously thought possible. For runners who often take on poor winter conditions, this is certainly a shoe you'll want to have in your closet.
On top of the excellent performance the Anima2 shoes bring to the table, they also happen to be quite comfortable. The shoes have thick padding that cradles the food nicely, providing yet more support for runners on the road. It's a rare combination of shoes that provide this kind of performance and are also comfortable on the foot.
As much as I really like these shoes, I have to say that I mostly preferred them in the bad conditions. When I ran on a dry trail with these shoes, there was something about the way the spikes felt that just didn't quite jive for me. On a regular trail, I'd still prefer a pair of regular trail shoes. But in the slop of the mud, ice and snow, there is no question I'd much rather have the Anima2's on my feet.
Also, I'd recommend getting a pair of gaiters to wear over these shoes, as they don't keep the snow and slush out of the top all that well. Aside from that, they are just about perfect for foul weather running.
MSRP: $155
Monday, 6 January 2014
Video: Adventure Is A Way Of Life
The title of this video pretty much sums up how I feel. Adventure is most certainly a way of life. The clip below, which comes our way courtesy of Garchois Films, features some stunning images that are sure to inspire a sense of adventure. Welcome to 2014!
adventure is a way of life, welcome to 2014 from Laurent Jamet on Vimeo.
Video: Kayaking The Zambezi River
Looking for a healthy dose of adventure to jump start your week? Then look no further than this video, which follows kayaker Mat Dumoulin as he paddles the amazing Zambezi River in Africa. The scenery is quite spectacular and the white water looks insane. What more could you ask for?
Kayaking the Zambezi river - Mat Dumoulin from Dumoulin mathieu on Vimeo.
6 Great Soft Adventures For 2014
If you missed my list of 10 Big Adventures for 2014 or your looking for something a bit less demanding for your own escape, then you'll want to checkout the 6 Best Places for 2014 as selected by Richard Bangs. Richard, who hosts the television show Adventures with Purpose, posted his selections to HuffPo last week, offering travelers a great selection of destinations for the year ahead.
The list is actually a series of videos which don't actually reveal the destination outright, but instead give viewers clues to exactly where Richard is as he shows off the attractions there. At the end of the video, we can then click on an object in it to reveal the exact location. For an example, check out the clip below, and then start making your plans to travel later this year.
The list is actually a series of videos which don't actually reveal the destination outright, but instead give viewers clues to exactly where Richard is as he shows off the attractions there. At the end of the video, we can then click on an object in it to reveal the exact location. For an example, check out the clip below, and then start making your plans to travel later this year.
Antarctica 2013: Speed Records, Resupplies, And Agony At The Bottom Of The World
It has been another very active couple of days in the Antarctic, where the explorers continue to press ahead with expeditions to and from the South Pole. At this point in the season the teams still out on the ice are really in the grind. They've been skiing (and in some cases biking!) towards their goal for days, and while the end is in sight, there are still many miles to cross before the season is finally done. It can be a very tough, agonizing stage of the journey, both mentally and physically, as most now found out.
We've been following the Scott Expedition for two and a half months now, and Ben and Tarka have now rounded the Pole and are headed back towards their starting point at the Scott Hut along the coast. But last week the boys were forced to call in a resupply as they were starting to run dangerously low on food and fuel. On top of that, the physical toll of the expedition has really hit the team hard. They had hoped to pick up speed on the return trip, but so far that hasn't happened. Over the course of the past few weeks, their blog updates have hinted at the struggles they had been facing, but Ben and Tarka did a good job of hiding just how difficult the journey had been, and how close to the edge they were playing their dangerous game. In the end, they came very close to having to call off the expedition altogether, as they misjudged how difficult it would and pushed themselves to the very limits. To get a true sense of what they were up against, I'd suggest you read this blog post from last Thursday. It'll give you a true sense of just how incredibly rough the mission has been so far. Needless to say, the resupply may have saved their lives, or at the very least has allowed them to continue. The drama isn't completely over yet however, as the duo continues to face challenges, including a bout of hypothermia, even as they have reached their first supply depot on the return trip. Now 74 days into their journey, they still have roughly 740 miles (1190 km) to go, with the clock ticking towards the end of the season.
While the Scott Expedition continues its long, cold march back to the coast, another explorer has wrapped up his expedition as expected. On Saturday, Richard Parks reached the South Pole, completing his speed record attempt in an impressive 29 days, 19 hours, and 24 minutes. That is five days off the record pace he had hoped to set, but still good enough to give him the fastest time by a Brit to the the Pole in solo and unsupported fashion. I'm sure Richard is a bit disappointed at not getting the record, but considering the conditions he faced, he should be quite proud of his efforts. It hasn't exactly been a good year in the Antarctic and in order to break the record in the future, conditions will have to be nearly perfect. Parks had little time to celebrate his achievement at 90ºS, as he has already returned to the Union Glacier Camp and will soon be making his way back to Punta Arenas, Chile, and then home to the U.K.
Aussie kite-skier Geoff Wilson has also completed his expedition at last. After 53 days of catching the wind, he has traversed the continent via the South Pole and now arrived at Hercules Inlet, where he is reportedly exhausted and happy, but still waiting for extraction to Union Glacier. In his latest blog post from today, he reports that he is down to his last full meal, so he is hoping that weather conditions improve soon. High winds are keeping flights in Antarctica grounded for now, but the forecast is reporting better weather ahead. Geoff says that he won't starve, as he has a few other scraps to keep him going, and plenty of fuel to melt snow for water. But by now, he is ready for a big meal and a warm bed.
16-year old Lewis Clarke continues to make good progress in his efforts to become the youngest person to ever ski to the South Pole. He and his guide Carl Alvey have now crossed the 87th degree and covered more than 500 miles (804 km) in the process. They've now entered the massive sastrugi field that is located at that point on the map, which is slowing them down some and making progress much harder. Still, with less than 200 miles to go until they reach the Pole, Lewis is doing quite well. They should be on track to reach the finish line sometime next week.
Also now inside 87ºS is South Pole cyclist Daniel Burton, who continues to extend his record for riding the longest distance in Antarctica. Every day continues to be a struggle for Daniel, but he shows remarkable resolve in his efforts to become the first person to ride his fat tire mountain bike the full distance to the South Pole. He's dealing with the sastrugi as well, and reports that they continue to grow in size. As tough as they are to ski over and around, I'm sure they are just as challenging on a bike, which has precarious balance in the high winds and slick surface conditions of Antarctica. If all goes well, there is a good chance that Daniel will wrap up his expedition next week as well. He has continued to increase his mileage, although the challenge is still quite great.
Finally, husband and wife team Chris and Marty Fagan are pushing ahead toward the Pole. It is now the 35th day of their expedition and they have just 12 days to reach 90ºS before they run out of food. Unless they go on half rations, that means they now have less than two weeks to cover the remaining 160 miles (257 km) that remain. That average out to 13.5 miles (21.7 km) per day to reach their goal. Certainly doable, but they'll need to push hard over the last stretch.
The Antarctic season isn't over yet, and there still plenty of drama to come as we head down the stretch. Stay tuned for more updates in the days ahead.
We've been following the Scott Expedition for two and a half months now, and Ben and Tarka have now rounded the Pole and are headed back towards their starting point at the Scott Hut along the coast. But last week the boys were forced to call in a resupply as they were starting to run dangerously low on food and fuel. On top of that, the physical toll of the expedition has really hit the team hard. They had hoped to pick up speed on the return trip, but so far that hasn't happened. Over the course of the past few weeks, their blog updates have hinted at the struggles they had been facing, but Ben and Tarka did a good job of hiding just how difficult the journey had been, and how close to the edge they were playing their dangerous game. In the end, they came very close to having to call off the expedition altogether, as they misjudged how difficult it would and pushed themselves to the very limits. To get a true sense of what they were up against, I'd suggest you read this blog post from last Thursday. It'll give you a true sense of just how incredibly rough the mission has been so far. Needless to say, the resupply may have saved their lives, or at the very least has allowed them to continue. The drama isn't completely over yet however, as the duo continues to face challenges, including a bout of hypothermia, even as they have reached their first supply depot on the return trip. Now 74 days into their journey, they still have roughly 740 miles (1190 km) to go, with the clock ticking towards the end of the season.
While the Scott Expedition continues its long, cold march back to the coast, another explorer has wrapped up his expedition as expected. On Saturday, Richard Parks reached the South Pole, completing his speed record attempt in an impressive 29 days, 19 hours, and 24 minutes. That is five days off the record pace he had hoped to set, but still good enough to give him the fastest time by a Brit to the the Pole in solo and unsupported fashion. I'm sure Richard is a bit disappointed at not getting the record, but considering the conditions he faced, he should be quite proud of his efforts. It hasn't exactly been a good year in the Antarctic and in order to break the record in the future, conditions will have to be nearly perfect. Parks had little time to celebrate his achievement at 90ºS, as he has already returned to the Union Glacier Camp and will soon be making his way back to Punta Arenas, Chile, and then home to the U.K.
Aussie kite-skier Geoff Wilson has also completed his expedition at last. After 53 days of catching the wind, he has traversed the continent via the South Pole and now arrived at Hercules Inlet, where he is reportedly exhausted and happy, but still waiting for extraction to Union Glacier. In his latest blog post from today, he reports that he is down to his last full meal, so he is hoping that weather conditions improve soon. High winds are keeping flights in Antarctica grounded for now, but the forecast is reporting better weather ahead. Geoff says that he won't starve, as he has a few other scraps to keep him going, and plenty of fuel to melt snow for water. But by now, he is ready for a big meal and a warm bed.
16-year old Lewis Clarke continues to make good progress in his efforts to become the youngest person to ever ski to the South Pole. He and his guide Carl Alvey have now crossed the 87th degree and covered more than 500 miles (804 km) in the process. They've now entered the massive sastrugi field that is located at that point on the map, which is slowing them down some and making progress much harder. Still, with less than 200 miles to go until they reach the Pole, Lewis is doing quite well. They should be on track to reach the finish line sometime next week.
Also now inside 87ºS is South Pole cyclist Daniel Burton, who continues to extend his record for riding the longest distance in Antarctica. Every day continues to be a struggle for Daniel, but he shows remarkable resolve in his efforts to become the first person to ride his fat tire mountain bike the full distance to the South Pole. He's dealing with the sastrugi as well, and reports that they continue to grow in size. As tough as they are to ski over and around, I'm sure they are just as challenging on a bike, which has precarious balance in the high winds and slick surface conditions of Antarctica. If all goes well, there is a good chance that Daniel will wrap up his expedition next week as well. He has continued to increase his mileage, although the challenge is still quite great.
Finally, husband and wife team Chris and Marty Fagan are pushing ahead toward the Pole. It is now the 35th day of their expedition and they have just 12 days to reach 90ºS before they run out of food. Unless they go on half rations, that means they now have less than two weeks to cover the remaining 160 miles (257 km) that remain. That average out to 13.5 miles (21.7 km) per day to reach their goal. Certainly doable, but they'll need to push hard over the last stretch.
The Antarctic season isn't over yet, and there still plenty of drama to come as we head down the stretch. Stay tuned for more updates in the days ahead.
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